The Fight Against Wrinkles: Does Skincare Really Work?
Rejuvenation is the latest trend in skincare. But what does the science actually say – and which approaches truly work against wrinkles?
11 February 2025
Few subjects preoccupy people over 30 as much as skin ageing. Fine lines around the eyes, forehead wrinkles, crêpey creases – the market is full of products promising short-term effects. But why do wrinkles form in the first place, and which approaches are genuinely effective?
Why do wrinkles form?
Wrinkles arise from a combined effect of genetic predisposition and environmental factors. The following factors accelerate the process:
Collagen & elastin loss — From the age of 25, production declines by 1–2 % each year. The skin loses firmness and elasticity.
Lack of moisture — With age the skin produces fewer of its own lipids; the barrier grows weaker and loses water.
UV damage — Up to 80 % of skin ageing is caused by UV radiation: collagen is broken down and pigment spots appear.
Slowed cell renewal — Young skin renews itself every 28 days, older skin takes up to 50 – wrinkles etch in more deeply.
Glycation — Sugar molecules bind to collagen fibres and make them stiff and brittle.
Temperature stress & environment — Cold air, dry heated air and pollution take their toll on the skin barrier.
The most common mistakes in anti-ageing care
Driven by advertising promises, many people reach for products that do more harm than good in the long run:
Ingredients that are too aggressive weaken the skin barrier and lead to dryness.
One-size-fits-all solutions instead of personalised care – the wrong actives at the wrong time irritate the skin.
Aggressive cleansing with drying surfactants (e.g. sulphates) weakens the barrier.
No daily sun protection – UV rays cause up to 80 % of visible skin ageing.
Exfoliating too often or too harshly irritates the skin and fuels inflammation.
Moisturising care without skin-strengthening lipids such as ceramides, squalane or omega fatty acids.
“Skin ageing is no accident. The right skincare and a mindful lifestyle can visibly slow the process.”Dr. Lars Rüther, molecular & cell biologist
Scientific research as the solution
To tackle skin ageing scientifically, researchers at the renowned Fraunhofer Institute began an intensive investigation in 2013 – and developed an entirely new care concept: skinmade. Three central findings became the breakthrough.
1. The right actives in the right concentration
Certain bioactive ingredients activate skin regeneration and slow the breakdown of collagen:
Peptides & EGF — Boost collagen and elastin production by up to 70 % and promote cell regeneration.
Retinol & bakuchiol — Stimulate cell regeneration, smooth the skin texture and reduce pigment spots.
Hyaluronic acid & lipids — Draw water into the cells and plump the skin, while lipids strengthen the barrier.
Antioxidants & niacinamide — Fight free radicals, protect against UV damage and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier.
Omega fatty acids & ceramides — Repair the skin barrier and help it retain moisture.
Squalane — Skin-identical lipids that penetrate deeply, lock in moisture and act as an antioxidant.
Sun protection & repair enzymes — Without UV protection no anti-ageing care can work; enzymes repair existing UV damage.
Insight: It is not the active alone that determines the effect, but also its concentration and combination.
2. Actives must penetrate deep into the skin
A common problem: actives remain on the surface. The researchers developed penetration systems that carry bioactive substances precisely into deeper layers of the skin. Fluorescence microscopy reveals the difference (green = collagen):
Control: without vitamin CSubject A: plain vitamin CSubject B: stabilised with gold atoms
With gold-stabilised vitamin C for deeper penetration, collagen synthesis is 100 % more effective than with plain vitamin C.
3. Less is more: the minimalist routine
Many people overload their skin with products that aren’t coordinated with one another. The research shows: as much care as necessary, as little as possible.
Gentle, replenishing cleansing that doesn’t compromise the skin barrier.
Targeted active serums to slow skin ageing effectively.
Individually tailored moisturising care with exactly the ingredients your skin needs.
Daily UV protection against light-induced skin ageing.
“I recommend sun protection every day – even in winter, with at least SPF 30, ideally SPF 50, high UVA protection and antioxidants.”Dr. Lars Rüther
The result: scientifically grounded skincare
Building on these findings, the personalised, biomimetic system care skinmade was developed – proven in clinical studies. It can:
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Support collagen and elastin production
Strengthen the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss
Minimise the harmful effects of UV radiation and free radicals
BeforeAfter 8–12 weeks of using skinmade
Economics Minister Nicole Hoffmeister-Kraut presents Dr. Viktor Balzer with the Founder’s Award of Baden-Württemberg, Stuttgart 2018.
The development of skinmade is built on more than 10 years of research at the Fraunhofer Institute – one of Europe’s leading institutions for applied skin research.
★★★★★Monika S. (52) — I’ve tried so many anti-ageing creams, but none has transformed my skin like this. After just a few weeks it feels firmer and the fine lines around my eyes are less visible.
★★★★★Claudia (48) — I’m happy – fewer wrinkles, especially around the eyes.
★★★★★Sabine K. (45) — My forehead lines look much softer, my complexion is more radiant and my skin feels firmer. I’m delighted!
★★★★★Alexander R. (55) — My skin is no longer so dry and looks fresher. I even get compliments that I look well-rested.
